Jill Robinson

Writer, Photographer, Adventurer

new orleans

Red Beans and Carnival Season

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Three years ago, I visited New Orleans during the height of Carnival season. It was nothing like what I’d imagined. All the national media focus on the hordes of drunken bead-throwers on Bourbon Street had burned into my brain over the years and made me give the whole thing a pass. But local friends assured me, “No, it’s really more of a family thing—just avoid the crazy Bourbon Street mess,” and I decided to give it a try.

That first year, I was enthralled. I decided that the next year I’d sign up to ride in one of the parades. But before I could do so, I was laid off, and paying to ride in a parade moved lower on my list of necessities. And then, I ran into the Redbeans Parade.

The group has been parading on Lundi Gras since 2009, starting at the edge of the Bywater and walking through the Marigny, Treme and French Quarter in costumes covered in red beans (as well as other types of beans) and rice. The group’s grand marshal for life is Al “Carnival Time” Johnson, and the Treme Brass Band provides the all-important music for the second line.

Some of the costumes look like they have taken the equivalent of a full-time job to create. Others are thrown together a little more quickly, however all of them give you a glimpse into the creativity of the individual Beaners (as the group calls its members).

Red beans and rice is an important culinary dish in New Orleans, traditionally served on Mondays. And making elaborate suits each year for limited wear during Carnival season is part of the Mardi Gras Indian tradition. Even though the Redbeans group is relatively new, the blend of New Orleans culture makes it seem comfortably familiar already.

I found the Redbeans Parade last year, the group’s second annual parade. Doug and I walked along with them, but we didn’t quite fit in with the Beaners, since we hadn’t prepared bean suits.

This year, we planned differently. Our suits were chef’s aprons and toques that we’d labored over with beans, rice and a hot glue gun. We packed them gently in our suitcases, told our New Orleans friends to come out and join us, and hit the streets to parade with the group on Lundi Gras. We packed our apron pockets with beads, doubloons and rice to throw at onlookers and felt like rock stars when the crowds swelled and people cheered.

“Did you rice anyone over in that group?” I asked Doug, wondering if I should throw a handful of rice as we second-lined through the Treme.

“I love that I overheard you and knew exactly what you meant,” replied another Beaner, decked out in a rainbow of legumes.

Sure, I still dream of riding in a parade krewe, but I’m hooked on the Redbeans Parade. I’m already dreaming up costuming ideas for next year, and have convinced friends to join us. I may not live in New Orleans, but I’m a Beaner and I’m proud.

Breakfast at Brennan’s

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One Jazz Fest weekend in the early 1990s, I had breakfast at the famed New Orleans restaurant, Brennan’s. My sister and brother-in-law accompanied me, and while our wallets were much lighter after the meal, we had fond memories of that amazing breakfast.

A few weeks ago, I returned to Brennan’s for breakfast. I can’t believe that I’ve been away for so long. But when I’m in New Orleans nowadays, I stay with friends in the Marigny, so I’m more likely to get my morning meal right around the corner at La Peniche.

Let me enumerate the things I love about Brennan’s.

1. Eye openers

You might be sluggish in the morning, due to too much partying the night before. What do you need in order to solve that? Coffee? Sure, bring it on. But you also need an “eye opener.” No, that’s not coffee, it’s an adult beverage. My favorite is the Ojen Frappé, a sweet anisette drink. Ojen was once made in a small village in Spain, and is no longer available anywhere, except from someone’s personal stock. When I see it on a menu, I’m getting it.

2. Amazing egg dishes

My breakfast in the photo above (after the cinnamon toast and Creole onion soup) was a combination of Eggs Portuguese and Eggs Nouvelle Orléans. Eggs Portuguese have poached eggs covered in Hollandaise sauce atop flaky pastry shells filled with chopped tomatoes sautéed in butter with shallots and parsley. Eggs Nouvelle Orléans consists of a huge mound of lump crabmeat topped with poached eggs and a brandy cream sauce. Both dishes were absolute heaven.

3. Bananas Foster


Remember to leave room for dessert, because you’re having Bananas Foster, created at Brennan’s. The dish starts with bananas. They’re sautéed in butter, brown sugar, cinnamon and banana liqueur, all in front of you. The final theatric moment of the preparation has flames leaping high above the pan as your waiter adds rum. It’s then spooned over vanilla ice cream. A friend has made this at home for me, and thank goodness, because I think I’d singe my eyebrows off if I ever tried it myself.

Brennan’s serves dinner, too. And I’m sure it’s as wonderful as breakfast. In fact, I think I’ll try that next time. They have Bananas Foster for dessert in the evening as well, so I won’t miss my favorite dish.

Try it out yourself. Just don’t drink my Ojen.

Building a Home in the Rain

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I never thought that spending a day to build a house in the pouring rain would be a rewarding experience. But on August 28, one day before the Hurricane Katrina five-year anniversary, I did just that—and I’d do it again in a second.

To be honest, I wasn’t prepared at all for the rain. Sure, I saw weather forecasts for thunderstorms before I left for New Orleans, but I’d been there two weeks beforehand, and it was the heat, not the rain, which stuck in my mind. Besides, I just didn’t believe it would rain that day. I imagined myself collapsing under a tent due to the heat before I imagined myself wringing water out of my shorts and T-shirt.


That morning, I joined Marriott International employees, Marriott hotel guests and Habitat for Humanity staff to build one of five homes in the 7th Ward. The New Orleans Marriott and eight other Marriott properties in the city offer the “Spirit to Serve New Orleans” package, which allows guests to enjoy their time in New Orleans, as well as help out.

Through 2010, guests can volunteer with New Orleans Area Habitat for Humanity or the Second Harvest Food Bank of Greater New Orleans. Included in the package are: deluxe accommodations, a dedicated concierge to help coordinate volunteer activities, transportation to and from the volunteer site for two, box lunch for two and two commemorative T-shirts. Rates start at $99 per night.


Once I started working that day, being wet was the last thing I thought about. I’m not a particularly comfortable ladder person, yet there I was, perched on a ladder outside the house, nailing siding up on the wall. I didn’t think to ask for another job. I just sucked it up and worked with my building partner, Susan Barnes, to learn a new skill and help get the house done. Take a look at our work in the photo above. Don’t focus on that one uneven piece of siding—look at the entire picture.

Before I knew it, it was time to clean up our tools and end the day. Because it was a special event for Katrinaversary, we celebrated by having a second line down the street where the five houses were under construction. Workers, new homeowners and neighbors joined the brass band, which included Branford Marsalis.

I got choked up just watching the neighborhood celebrate this event after the flooding disaster that followed Katrina. I’ve visited the city nearly 20 times in the past five years, writing articles, hanging out with friends and being a tourist—but that moment got me. It’s a good thing I had a second-line handkerchief in my hand.

Afterward, we chowed down on the best jambalaya I’ve ever had and went back to the New Orleans Marriott—where staff members met us with dry towels and cheers. I’m hooked, not just on New Orleans. I’d sign up to do a Habitat build there again.

Middle and bottom photos courtesy of Susan Barnes. Thanks!

Celebrating Friendship in New Orleans

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Media attention is on New Orleans this week for the fifth anniversary of Hurricane Katrina and the deluge that followed the storm. I’ll be in the Crescent City for the anniversary, among a group of people working on a Habitat for Humanity house—just one of many that are still needed.

I was in New Orleans only a couple of weeks ago, and am thrilled to be going back so soon. There’s something about the city that grabbed me the first time I visited, and I’ve never been able to get that place out of my mind. The feeling has only gotten stronger since Katrina.

In December 2005, Doug and I went to New Orleans to help by spending much-needed tourist dollars. We waited until we knew we wouldn’t be a burden on the city and its limited services, and we were well aware that most places remained closed.

After we walked into our favorite bar and ordered a drink, someone at the round table behind us asked: “Hey, y’all FEMA?”

No, we weren’t, we explained. We just wanted to spend some tourist money and see how things were three months after Katrina.

“Then your drinks are on me and you need to come on over here and join us,” responded the man.

That was just the beginning of getting to know what has become our group of New Orleans friends. More than 15 visits later, we’ve shared many hours at the round table in that bar (and others), crawfish boils, barbecues, Mardi Gras parades, Jazz Fest weekends, birthdays and a wedding. It’s been more than two years since we’ve stayed in a hotel, even though I always loved the sweet B&B where we were regulars. Instead, we bunk with friends in the Marigny.

I thought I was pretty familiar with the city before meeting them. And even though one friend will protest that I know more about New Orleans than he does (as a longtime resident), I’ve learned enough to know that as much as I’m familiar with New Orleans culture, I’ll never really know the city unless I live there. And that’s often a question posed by our group of friends: “How is it that you don’t live here yet?”

The day I do have a home in New Orleans, I know that making an invitation list for my housewarming party will be easy.