Jill Robinson

Writer, Photographer, Adventurer

surfing

Surf Camp Report

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It’s been a couple weeks since I’ve returned from my surf camp in Mexico. Since then, I’ve been eyeing surfboards nearly everywhere I go, looking for the one that will allow me more practice time at my local surf break.

The water’s a little colder here than in the Riviera Nayarit, but there’s so such thing as too cold—just inappropriately dressed. More neoprene solves the problem until I can get to warmer water again.

The Las Olas surf safari experience spoiled me. With an easy schedule every day involving only meals, yoga and surfing, it allowed me ample time to not only focus on my water skills, but also get to know my fellow classmates and why each chose a surf camp vacation. It was clear early on that we all enjoyed good food—as we sampled the restaurants to find the best fish tacos, Mexican hot chocolate and other local favorites.

What made it a successful surf trip for me was the focused attention from our talented instructors. They spent hours in the water with us, and celebrated each success—even if it was as simple as riding a wave just a little longer than the last time. At best, we had a 1:1 instructor to student ratio. When we were all in the water, it was more like 1:2.

A little more than halfway through the week, we took a field trip to Punta de Mita to surf a longer wave and go whale watching. It was a lucky day. We spent time hanging out alongside a mother and her calf, as the calf continuously breached—giving us a huge show. Later, I got the best and longest ride of my week. A little time at the end to lunch on fresh shrimp ceviche and lounge in the sun was all I needed to call that my favorite day.

What’s next? I’m headed to the Santa Ynez Valley for some hiking, horseback riding and Santa Maria-style barbecue. Then, I’m off to Aspen, to see if I can remember how to ski. Later in March, I’ll be in Kauaʻi for Hawaiian culture, outdoor adventure and perhaps a little ukulele shopping. In between, it’s all about the writing, kayaking, hiking—and maybe a little surfing, if I can find the right board.

Surf Safari

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Years ago, when I ran across the promotional materials for Las Olas, a surf safari for women on Mexico’s Pacific coast, the power of one sentence not only grabbed me, but knocked me over the head and nearly dragged me to Mexico.

“We make girls out of women.”

I often joke with close friends that inside, I am 5 years old. But as with many people, that wide-eyed wonder at the world gets clouded when at home and facing daily realities like work deadlines and paying bills. Scheduling a week to play is a dream, and I can’t remember the last time I’ve done it.

Now, I’m finally going. I’m on assignment, so there’s work involved—however this trip, I’m allowing myself more time off to enjoy. The timing couldn’t be better.

Stay tuned for more posts on my Las Olas experience, but likely after I return. Surf’s up!

Turning the Corner

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For the past month, I’ve been learning to surf on a stand-up paddleboard (SUP). No, I’m not on vacation at a surf camp. I’m just going out to a local break about three times a week and getting out there. Today, I finally turned the corner.

It’s been somewhat of a frustrating experience. At first, when I was just paddling the SUP on relatively calm water (both in Half Moon Bay and in Puerto Rico), I was an instant success. In fact, I didn’t fall off the board during any of those sessions. Sure, surfing is a completely different experience, but for a short while, I believed the learning curve would be pretty easy.

And then I went out in the surf. I fell a million times. I got saltwater up my nose. I smacked my face and got a black eye. I smacked my face again and got a split lip. But I caught a few waves, too, and those moments are golden.

Doug’s been a rather patient coach. There are times when he tells me that I’m too far away from the peak, or letting the fog spook me. Sometimes I get tired of hearing it. But after I answer, “yeah, yeah” and dismiss him—I understand why he’s saying it. Then I move a little closer to the peak, or try to find my place among the waves and rocks that I can barely see in the fog. And each time I learn something new and get a little better.

So today, on one of those beautifully clear and sunny coastal days when the water is glass and the waves aren’t too huge—I finally got it. I found my place in the lineup and I charged the waves. I put my foot farther back; I crouched down more. I got the best ride of my life, and a lot of shorter rides as well. My board also bonked me on the head once, but there was no blood, so I went back out.

I’m not as good as many of the people who surf SUPs at the same spot, but it’s not a competition. I watch them, they watch me, and sometimes they give me tips or an “atta girl.” It’s enough to make me want to keep going out and getting better in my own time.

The learning curve may have been longer than I expected, but I’m having an awesome time.